Men’s Dress Shirt Styles – How To Choose the Perfect Collar, Placket, Cuff & Fit

Learn more in our written Dress Shirt Style Guide here:

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With the recent popularity of made to measure shirts and custom shirts online and offline, you get lots of options. Now that can be a blessing or a curse, depending on what you need and what you don’t.

Classic Fit
The primary goal of the classic fit is comfort so you’ll have more space in the chest, you’ll have wider sleeves. Overall, it’s a roomier cut with excess fabric. The idea is that it gives you mobility.

Slim Fit
Basically, everything on the shirt is slimmed down. The torso is slimmed down sometimes with the use of darts in the back. The chest is smaller, the shoulder width is smaller, and oftentimes, also the sleeves are much slimmer.

Modern Fit / Contemporary Fit
This is somewhere between the classic fit and the slim fit. It usually features a slightly tapered silhouette, sometimes has darts, sometimes not. It is an attractive look but it doesn’t compromise comfort and mobility.

Super Skinny Fit
This just means that everything is tight. The problem is that it’s so tight that you easily get wrinkles all over the place.


Traditional front placket which is an additional piece of fabric strip that is sewn onto the top. It creates great symmetry, it’s therefore very popular for a classic shirt.

French placket. Unlike the Amercian placket, it’s simply a flat, smooth edge that’s folded over and sewn.

3/4 placket which means the placket doesn’t go all the way down and it’s more like a polo shirt, just very deep.

fly front placket. It’s called that way because the buttons are hidden with an additional piece of fabric and personally, I don’t like it at all.


Spread Collar. It has a certain spread and it’s used for dress shirts and casual shirts alike. It works with or without a tie and it’s quite versatile.

Button down collar. It’s particularly popular for the oxford cloth button down collar shirt.

Under button-down collars. There’s simply a button placed underneath the collar so it’s invisible.

Classic collar. Not too spread, tips are not too long but not too short.

Smaller collars have become very popular but most of the time, they’re not very flattering especially if you wear a tie or a bow tie, it simply looks like a child collar.

Detachable wing collar. For evening wear such as white tie tailcoat and tuxedo, men would traditionally wear this one.

Mao collar. A short, stand-up collar. It’s very easy to tailor and it’s sometimes worn in combination with the Nehru jacket.

Club collar. It has rounded ends so you’re not going to have a collar tip but they’re just rounded.

Medium spread collar. It’s basically not classic but not too spread. It’s kind of in between.

Extreme cutaway collar. It’s just cut away so far, you cannot really wear a neckwear that looks flattering.

Shirt Cuff

-French cuffs or double cuffs.
-James Bond cuff
– straight cut cuffs, or slightly angled ones, or rounded ones

Most traditional shirts have a hem that is longer in the front and at the back and cut up in the middle so you don’t have excess bunching of fabric.

Traditionally, you can find a so-called split yoke in the back which originally was there to compensate for sloping shoulders.

In terms of pleats, traditional shirts oftentimes feature a center pleat down the middle. It’s like a box pleat that gives you more room.
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20 thoughts on “Men’s Dress Shirt Styles – How To Choose the Perfect Collar, Placket, Cuff & Fit

  1. can you make one on how too match up dress shirts with jeans or what type pants & shoes would be the best combination too wear with

  2. I love these videos. More often than not, I find I've been doing it right, just instinctually…but it's good to have a real expert open up more ideas and braven us fashion aspiring guys to try new things without taking the risk of looking stupid…lol

  3. 05:15 left me a little confused: I've been taught that wearing a tie on a button-down collar shirt was a no-go? Just on button-downs, not the more discreet under-botton-down collars. Since then, I always considered button-down shirts to be rather leisure-style, although you find them worn and combined with ties all over the place.

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